Tag Archives: Overheated

Keep Track Of Your Tire Pressure And Temperature

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I read all the time that one of the biggest fears people have when RVing is a blown tire and the massive amount of damage that it can cause.  But I rarely read about a Fulltimer or a Newbie adding or adjusting a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS).  Why?  I doubt that every RV sold comes with a tire monitoring system. I just got back from one of the big RV shows and not one 5th wheel that I looked at came with a TPMS nor did a single salesman recommend a tire monitoring system during the sales presentation.  I also read that more than 60% of the RVs on the road today are overloaded or worse that the tire pressure on the RV is below the manufacturer’s recommended tire pressure.  To make it worse [if that is possible] many of the  RVs going down the highway, are going at  70 mph or higher. Even though the RV’s tires are marked not to exceed 65 mph.  As we get our RVs ready for another season of camping, let’s look at what we need to do to be safer going down the road and monitoring our tires.  

 

1. 

You need to check the tire pressure when the tire is still cold. 

It has been shown, by an  infrared thermometer, that after only 10 minutes of Summer Sun, that the temperature of RV tires have risen above COLD and should not be measured for pressure and thought to be cold.  After you have driven 1 mile the RV tires are not considered cold and should not be tested for pressure as being cold. 


2.

When you stop for gas or a bathroom break, you should do a tire check of the RV as well as the tow vehicle. My daughter was checking the tow vehicle for me and found a large cut in the sidewall of the truck tire.  We were able to get the tire replaced before the large accident occurred.  I did not even remember hitting or running over anything on the highway.


3.

Before starting out on the RVing trip be sure to carefully look at the tread, and the side walls both on the front and the back of the tire.  Most RV tire experts agree that if your RV tires are more than five years old from the date of manufacture [shown in a code on the tire] you should replace them. 


4.

Most tire failures occur when the side wall of the tire is under inflated or rots out from the inside where you can not see. Remember you are riding on air, the tire just keeps the air captured and held in place.  You can thank Mr. Sun for sidewall failure in some cases.  Most tires have a Mr. Sun inhibitor built-in but when a tire sits and sits the inhibitor does not get moved to the outside of the tire by the tire going round and round.  Now you see why you need wheel covers right? Trailer Wheel Covers   for less than $25. 


OK, I have exposed you to some of the basic safety things you need to do, now let’s look at those Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems.

A good system for monitoring your tire pressure as well as the tire temperature is the  Wireless Tire Pressure Monitoring System .

Wireless Tire Pressure Monitoring System


The system will tell you of an overheated tire, in most cases before it blows, and of course tell you of low pressure in any monitored tire, even the spare, in real time. 

  • Monitors up to 22 wheels (0-232 psi)
  •  Quickly reacts to abnormal pressure or temperature
  • Waterproof & Dustproof sensors; 
  • Customizable Tire Pressure Monitoring Criteria
  • Sensor Alarm system included; Locking Ring to Guard Against Theft
  • For use in RVs, SUVs, Caravans, Trucks, & Passenger cars

RV Flow-Through 6 Tire Sensor – Tire Pressure  Monitoring System (TPMS)


RV Flow-Through 6 Tire Sensor – Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)

  • The flow-through sensor with replaceable battery can be secured to prevent loss or theft
  • Portable monitor has rechargeable battery and monitors tire pressure 0-199 PSI & temperature
  • Monitor tires 24/7: low/high pressure, high temperature, and slow leaks.
  • Monitor warning thresholds are user adjustable; low-pressure alert level is per axle adjustable.
  • Tire sensor signals have excellent range and not require signal booster for most vehicles



As a lower cost alternative, you can use a screw-on tire pressure indicator, such as Quick-Pressure-PSI-50-Monitor, which at a glance can tell you that you may have a problem [use only if your tires are supposed to have 50 lbs of air when cold. Other pressures are available]  and the traditional pencil like gauge, such as Pencil-Pressure Gage .  

A low-cost way to check the tire and the tire hub temperatures is to use a non-contact  Infrared temperature gun.  Such as the HDE Non-Contact Infrared IR Temperature Gun Digital Thermometer

As you stop during your travels you can check the tire temperature and hub of each tire.  They should be with-in a few degrees of each other.  If you find a tire or hub that is very much higher than the rest you should take action to find out why before you proceed.

The first thing you should do is to check the air pressure of the tire that is over heating.  I know that you have been traveling awhile but the pressure in the HOT tire should be with-in a few pounds of the rest of the tires on the rig.  You might want to consider a digital tire pressure gauge such as the NorthONE Digital Tire Pressure Gauge.

NorthONE Digital Tire Pressure Gauge

Just be sure that the gauge you buy can read pressures above those that your tire is supposed to have in it.

To protect the tires in storage from Mr. Sun and any other nasties that come along.  You can also use an RV tire protective spray which is applied, as directed, to the tire side wall that is exposed to the sun.

I have used RV Tire Protection Spray with good luck.  This spray is not designed to make the tire side wall shinier, it is not a decorative spray, but something that is designed to put back into the surface of the rubber what Mr. Sun is taking out.

RV Tire Protection Spray

Also, note, that if you are going to store the RV for an extended period of time you should protect the tread of the tire from the surface that the tires are sitting on.  Nasty things can leach out of your tires into the blacktop or concrete that your RV sits on while being stored. Or from the blacktop or concrete into your tires during storage.  You can use an  Office Chair Carpet Protector 

as a way to protect your tires during storage.  It is an inexpensive solution to tire protection during storage.

I hope this better explains why it is important to know what is going on with your tires and also helps with the fear factor.

 

Until next time.

 

And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

Smoke, Fire, Gas Safety

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Did you know that there is a date code on the smoke detector as well as your carbon monoxide detector in your RV?  Did you know that the propane detector in your RV has an end of life?

I sure didn’t know.  If you are just changing the detector batteries at the beginning of each RV season and removing the batteries at the end of each season you may not be doing everything you  need to be safe, there is more to it.  When was the last time you tested all your detectors to be sure that they all worked? (In many cases pushing the test button on the detector does not test the most important part of the detector, the sensor.)  Do you know how to test the detectors?  When is the last time you had a fire drill in your RV?

Let’s look for some answers.  On the back of every smoke detector there is a date code.  You may have to hunt for it but it is there.

Beginning in 1999, Underwriters Laboratories (UL) required the manufacturing date code on the back of the device to be printed in plain English. This information may appear on the back of the device, on the face of the horn, in the battery compartment or on the top sensing chamber.

It is widely held in the RV industry that if your detector is more than five years old, or is out of date, it should be replaced.

Some detectors have permanent batteries built-in and others need to be replaced annually.  Always use alkaline batteries when replacing batteries in detectors.  Alkaline batteries last the longest in low power usage situations, such as detectors.

Now let’s talk turkey.  Most RV manufactures use the lowest cost, simplest smoke detector they can in their rigs.  So false alarms and the possibility of alarm failures are there.  What can you do, upgrade your standard smoke detector to a combination ionization and Photoelectric smoke particle alarm such as the

Kidde Model Pi9010 Dual Sensing Smoke Detector .

These alarms have fewer false alarms and will give you and your family more time to get out if there is an emergency.

Most fire safety experts agree that you have about 20 seconds to get out of a RV that is on fire before you will be overcome and not be able to get out.

Where should I put the smoke detectors in the RV you ask?  One should be in the Master bedroom and one in the Bunkhouse (if your RV has one).  Another one should be located in the kitchen area of the rig.

You can test this type of detector by using a burning candle near the detector and then blowing it out.  See what happens.  Also you can push the button located on the detector to test the battery.  Pushing the button just test the battery and the electronics and does not check the sensor inside the unit.  The candle does that.

Next we have the Carbon Monoxide detector.  This detector looks for the gas from combustion. CM gas is odorless, colorless, and tasteless.  This is a very deadly gas.  Every year there are deaths caused by CM gas when people run gasoline generators outside of their trailer. This detector can be located in the hallway to the bedrooms or in the bedroom itself.  Don’t forget to put one in the bunkhouse. It should be located off the floor about head high or higher. In my rig the detector is located on the ceiling. The CM gas is lighter than air and will be found near the ceiling first.  Here is the one that I have  Battery Operated Carbon-Monoxide Detector.

Battery Operated Carbon-Monoxide Detector

Be sure to replace the batteries at the beginning of the RV season (remove batteries at the end of season) and keep the surface of the detector clean.

The LP Gas Detector is the last of the required detectors in your RV.  This one usually runs off of the 12volt battery system of the RV.  It is located very near the floor usually in the hallway to the master bedroom, but not always.  This is the guy that will detect if you stove, oven, furnace, refrigerator, or any other LP gas product in the RV is leaking LP into your breathing space.  LP Gas is heavier than air and sinks to the floor and builds up from there.  It has an bad odor that has been added to the gas by the LP Gas provider.  So LP Gas is not odorless, you sure can smell it.  Unless of course you are sleeping.  If you smell gas get out, get out now, do not look for the leak just get out, and get help.

Here is a 12volt LP Gas detector that has gotten good reviews and could replace what you are currently using if after testing yours does not work or the 5 year replacement date is up.  Remember pushing the test button on a detector does not test the sensor just the electronics and sounder.  Here is a detector that has gotten good reviews 12v LP Gas Detector.

12v LP Gas Detector

So how do you test one of these?  Remember those BIC lighters and Charcoal Starters?  Well get down near the detector and flick the BIC but do not light it.  Hold the lighter near the detector for a few seconds and you should set the alarm going.  Stop the flow of gas from the BIC and blow on the detector to dissipate the gas and the alarm should stop sounding.

A word of caution here I think is advisable.  I have heard that people are replacing the two gas detectors with one that claims it will do both jobs.  I would not want to bet my family’s safety on this all in one detector.  These gases are not the same weight in the air one rises and one sinks, now how is one detector going to be in the right place to detect the right gas?  Just say’in.

Now lets talk about fire fighting.  Don’t do it.  Get Out!!!  If you must fight the fire to give yourself and your family more time to get out, do you have the right fire extinguisher?  Here again, in most cases, the cheapest fire extinguisher was installed in your rig.  When was the last time you check the extinguisher?  Now is good time before you start off for this season.  If it is a powder type, turn it over a few times to resettle the powder.  If it is a squeeze the trigger type what is the date of manufacture?  You should plan on replacing the trigger type ever six years or sooner if the gage says so.   RVers die every year from rig fires, use the fire extinguisher to give you and your family time to get OUT not to fight the fire.

You need a fire extinguisher in each bedroom, in the kitchen area, and at the front and back door of the RV.  I recommend using Fire Gone 2NBFG2704

Fire Gone 2NBFG2704

as the best you can get to give you more time.  If the kids are old enough be sure they can operate the Fire Gone and be sure to put one in the bunkhouse.

Because of recent fire events, the following fire suppression device was developed RV Refer Compartment Fire Suppression.

RV Refer Compartment Fire Suppression

Because of the number of fires that have been caused (or thought to have been caused) by refrigerators in RVs, a automatic fire suppression system has been developed, shown above.  This system is one the average RVer can install and will activate in the presents of a fire in the the refrigerator compartment of an RV.  While you still need to get out as quickly as possible this unit may put the fire out completely or give you more time to get out either way it is a plus.

OK the fire drill.  Do you know how to get out of your Rig if the front door is blocked by fire?  In each bedroom area of the rig as well as other locations you will see a window with a red leaver at the bottom.  With the word EMERGENCY EXIT printed on it.  Move the handle in the direction indicated and the window will open and you can climb out.  Of course it will be a real job because you may have forgot a few tools that will help make it easier.  First did you have your emergency window prop open stick?  If you said no, you should.  Take and old broom handle, rake handle, hunk of PVC, etc, and cut it to 24″ long and paint it red.  Attach two dots of hook and loop to the top and bottom of the stick and to the wall along side or below the window and voila you are ready.  When the emergency occurs open the window put in your prop stick and pull a blanket or comforter from the bed or a blanket from other area and lay it across the bottom of the window frame covering the exit handle area of the window.  This will stop you from being cut or badly scratched by the window frame as you crawl out.

Have a meeting place well outside of the rig area, that everyone knows and will meet at if there is a fire so you can take a head count and be sure everyone is safe.

Last but not the least.  Do the kids know how to get out?  Each season before you hit the road you should go over the fire safety rules and how to get out.

Rule number,

  1. GET OUT
  2. GET OUT
  3. NEVER FIGHT THE FIRE (you have approx 20sec to get out before you can’t)
  4. DO NOT GO BACK FOR THE DOG, CAT or GOLDFISH
  5. EVERYONE MEETS ACROSS THE ROAD

I am sure you get the picture.  Cats and dogs are part of the family for sure, but they are not humans and the kids and grandma are far more important.  Be sure to remind the kids of that.

Fire Safety Quick Check

  1. Test all Fire, LP Gas, and CM detectors
  2. Do not fight the fire GET OUT!!!!
  3. Know where the emergency exits are located
  4. Have an escape plan
  5. Have fire drills
  6. Be sure the fire extinguishers are up to date

Until next time

Do RVers Really Need A Power Monitor System?

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I see that question all the time on Facebook and most of the Blogs that I read.  For the simple, easy, straight forward answer, YES you do.  There are so many factors involved here that I can not possibly cover them all in a single post but, I would like to cover the basics so that you can better understand why you need a Power Management system of some kind.

1. You need to know what the AC (Shore Power) voltage is inside your rig.  This is the power that indirectly powers lights, water heater, microwave, furnace, charger for the 12-volt battery system, etc.  If the voltage gets below 102 volts and should stay there for a few minutes it would be possible to sustain approximately $1200 of damage or more.

So what do you need?  You will need an AC Line Voltage Monitor.  The unit shown below is plugged into an AC wall outlet that you can see and will monitor what the line voltage is.  If it should go below 105 volts you need to unplug your rig from the outside power pedestal until the voltage goes back to normal.

AC Line Voltage Monitor

So how do you know when the outside power pedestal is back to normal.  You plug the Voltage Monitor into the 125 volts two pin socket in the power pedestal and see what the monitor reads.  It should read 110 volts or higher up to 125 volts.  The same caution goes for overvoltage.  You should unplug the rig form the power pedestal if your Voltage Monitor begins to read over 122 Volts.  Plug the Voltage Monitor into the power pedestal and watch for the voltage to drop to below 122 Volts.

Could this monitoring of the voltage be done for less money?  Yes, by using a cheap Digital Volt Meter  pictured below;

 Digital Volt Meter

You could plug the test leads that come with the meter into the meter and then the other ends of the test lead into the slots on the AC wall socket. (Caution do not leave unattended) Or you could make up a cord from a 6-foot extension cord and the test leads that come with the meter.  See below for an example.

AC Cord With Test Meter Leads

2. Next is  The Polarity Tester.  This is used to be sure that the Neutral wire of the power line is not reversed with the positive lead of the power line.  If that were to happen you could have what is called a hot skin condition.  Meaning that if you had an aluminum skinned rig you could receive quite a shock from your rig.

 The Polarity Tester

The Polarity Tester can also tell you if the Earth Ground (the bare copper wire) is hooked up properly.  

The Earth Ground is a separate conductor which may seem to be doing nothing but, is, in fact, a protective wire. It is there, ready to take the current away to earth ground, from the body or frame of the electrical device it is connected to, makes contact with any “hot” wire. [the 120 volts mains power is carried in two current carrying conductors called “hot” and “neutral”.] 
So, IF one of the “hot” conductors should contact the metal frame of the rig or housing of an appliance, perhaps because the appliance got damaged by being dropped from a table, or similar accident,  the third wire which is the earth ground wire, which runs directly from the housing to the grounding [or earth ground bus] in the fuse or breaker panel, will in effect cause a short circuit which should blow the fuse or trip the breaker. 
This third wire also guarantees a current path back to the electrical panel where the fuse or circuit breaker protecting that circuit is located, in the event that the hot wire should come in contact with the rig frame, but the neutral conductor should happen to have been cut or damage and become disconnected, or open. 
The idea is to guarantee that if a part of the rig, device or appliance should become “hot,” which could be fatal to anyone who then came into contact with it. That the earth ground would trip/open the circuit protection device [fuse or breaker], and turn off the flow of AC current. 

To help further in checking for unwanted or wanted electricity a good investment is the Voltage Sensor which is shown below;

 Voltage Sensor

With this probe, you do not need to touch the power line to tell if there is voltage present.  You can use this probe to find power lines behind the wall or under the floor of the Rig as well as the towing vehicle.

3.  Often times you want to know or need to know how much power something uses, especially if you keep popping a breaker or the power pedestal. The solution is Kill-A-Watt.  The unit shown below can be used to show how much power an appliance, tool, or piece of electronics is using.

 Kill-A-Watt

4. Next, let’s look at surge protectors for the various pieces of equipment in your Rig.  Surge Protectors protect only what is plugged into them and only for overvoltage surges.  Surge Protectors do not protect for under voltage or high voltages.  Shown below is a pair of good simple surge protectors;

Surge Protectors

There are Appliance Surge Protectors made just for appliances like, microwave and coffee makers

Appliance Surge Protector

AC refrigerators, freezers. 

Refrigerator/Freezer Surge Protector


These special surge protectors offer extra features like audible alarms, flashing lights, displays, etc and are to be used with just the items listed on the packaging for the one you would buy.

5.  Next is a group of power management items that will protect your entire Rig not just one item or several items in it. First is the Portable Power Management System This type of system looks at High and Low voltage protection, time delay for air conditioning compressor startup, 3-mode surge protection, reverse polarity protection, open neutral protection, open ground protection, AC frequency protection accidental 220 Volt protection. Includes an Integrated information panel, previous error code display is weather resistant and has a built-in locking bracket so it can be chained to the power pedestal at the campground to prevent theft.  The only thing this unit cannot do is flush the black water tank.  The miracle unit we are talking about is shown below.

30 Amp Portable Power Management System

These portable units come in two sizes the one above 30 amp and the one shown below 50 amp.

50 Amp Portable Power Management System

Let’s say you were involved in a lightning-caused power surge at a campground.  It is estimated you would suffer approximately $3000 worth of damage to the electrical system of your Rig along with the things plugged into it.  The features of the 50 amp unit are the same as the 30 amp unit.

Ah, but there is more!  What happens if you do not want something portable but something more permanent in the Rig? Then you have the permanent installed units which are called Fixed Power Management Systems  These units are not really DIY type of items but, they can be installed by the DIYer if care is taken during the installation.  The 30 amp models is shown below;

 30 Amp Fixed Power Management Systems

There is also a 50 amp version of the same unit as above and can be found here;  50 Amp Fixed Power Management Systems .  The features of both units are the same and are,  high and low voltage protection, time delay for air conditioning compressor start-up, 3 mode surge protection, surge trip indicator, reverse polarity protection, open neutral protection, open ground protection, AC frequency protection. Accidental 220V protection, with the remote information display panel, and unit bypass switch.  Unfortunately, this unit also does not dump the black tank.


 I hope that you now have come to the conclusion that some type of power management is needed to protect your Rig, its contents and YOU!

 

Until Next Time

RV Fridge – Get It Cold & Keep It Cold

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Posted on November 9, 2014

Do you find that your RV refrigerator does not keep your food cold enough?  Does your RV fridge have it’s own unique smell?  Do you know how to chill down a warm RV fridge?  I think you are in the right frame of mind now.

Many of us store our RV in places that do not have electricity for us to keep the fridge plugged in and working all the time or even a few hours before we take off  for a fun filled and safe camping adventure.

So let’s talk about the care and feeding of an RV refrigerator.

1.   I hope you do not keep the fridge sealed as tight as a drum during storage.  You need to leave the door cracked open just a bit, so that air can move in and out of your fridge. This helps keep the inside of the fridge dry and reduce mold build up.  Did you ever wonder what that slide button on the fridge door is used for? Well to lock the door during travel to be sure but, if you slide the button so that you are locking the fridge door while the door is being held open the slide lock can be used to keep the fridge door from closing during storage. Be sure your fridge is as clean as possible before you close the door on the RV.  Making sure the fridge is clean will help stop the growth of mold inside of the unit.  Also if possible you should use a Naturally Activated Charcoal Odor Absorber like this one; RV Activated Charcoal

RV Activated Charcoal

This little odor eater would hang from a shelf at the back of the fridge to help keep odors out.  You can also use box of baking soda but that can spill going down the road and make quite a mess.

2. What can you do to get the fridge colder quicker once you get to the camp ground or on the way?  You could buy a bag of ice and put it on the top shelf of the fridge next to the silver fins at the back.  You could buy some cheap cold packs That look like this;

Cheap Cold Packs

Freeze them (usually three) and use them in place of the ice.  Very little if any water to clean up.  Or you could get some Zip Lock Heavy Duty Freezer Bags and put ice cubes from your home freezer in them and use them in place of the bought ice. Another idea for an ice pack is to partially fill a strong zip-type sandwich bag with Dawn dishwashing liquid, close and freeze. The liquid soap stays cold much longer and it can be refrozen many times. The frozen Dawn will conform to the place you need an ice pack. Maybe a bit more water to clean up than you would like.

The Nu-Ice Freezer Pack is a  chemical freezer pack capable of maintaining a sub-zero temperature by putting the pack into an insulated environment for up to 96 hours. This is accomplished by first  freezing the special pack to initiate the simple chemical reaction within the pack.

Nu-Ice Freezer Pack

But you could do even better and help the ice or cold pack by adding a RV fridge fan like this one; RV Fridge Fan .

RV Fridge Fan

It uses 2 D cell batteries (be sure to use alkaline type) and will give you 30 days of use before the batteries need to be changed.  It will reduce your fridge cool down time by half. I use one in my TT and it does work. (just be sure to turn it off before storing the rig).

I know some of you are a bit more high tech than a simple battery operated fan inside the fridge, and would like something a bit more.  I reference you here; High Tech RV Fridge Fan .

CAUTION:  Do not run your RV Fridge on GAS while going down the road.  Guys this is very dangerous for a lot of reasons and not recommended by anyone in the know that I have talk to.   I am sure someone will tell you that they have done it for years with no problems.  But it only take one time, of a fire or explosion or both.

3. What else could you do to help your RV fridge?  You could put a fan on the backside of the fridge inside the outside fridge compartment.  I am talking about the outside compartment in back of the fridge.  There are several type of this kind of fan.  One type uses a thermostat  to sense when there is too much heat, inside the outside compartment, thus slowing down cooling, and turns on the fan.  Or there is the DIY system that uses a 12 volt computer fan that comes on when ever power is turned on to the rig (this is what I use).  Let’s look at them both, first the thermostat controlled fridge compartment fan; RV Fridge Outside Compartment Fan

 There is some DIY here as well but a lot less that the system that I use.  Follow the link and read some of the user comments to better understand how this system works.

 RV Fridge Outside Compartment Fan

Next lets take a look at the one I used; 12 Volt Computer Fan

12 Volt Computer Fan

This is a completely DIY project so please remember that.  I found a convenient place on the inside of the outside refrigerator compartment’s grated grill cover and mounted the fan with some zip ties.  I ran the power wire from the fan to the rigs 12 volt power line, that I found inside the refrigerator compartment.  My 12 volt lines were the same color as the fan’s wiring. The fan blows air across the fins on the outside of the fridge located inside the fridge compartment.  The power draw is so small I did not worry about it and the fan runs whenever the rigs 12 volt system is on.  The fan is designed to be used in a computer so is whisper quiet. Boy does it work.

4. So we have the fridge getting cold but how cold is it and when can I put in some food?  Well if you do not have a thermometer to measure the temperature then how do you know?  There are two kinds of thermometers one is digital and one is analog.  Let’s look at them both.

Digital RV Thermometer Digital RV Thermometer

Digital RV Thermometer

The unit has two sensors one for the freezer and one for the fridge.  The unit runs off batteries and can tell you at a glance from the outside of the refrigerator unit what is going on inside and when you unit is cold enough for food.

Analog RV Thermometer; Analog RV Thermometer

 Analog RV Thermometer

This simple unit hangs from one of the shelves in the fridge and tells you when it is safe to put in your food. The negative thing is that you have to open the fridge to tell if it is ready, letting in more hot air and letting the cold air out.  I am saving for the digital version.

Well we’ve got your RV refrigerator humming along but, it is time to go home and park the rig until the next time.

How can you get it cleaned out and dried out fast?  One of these guys should help; Inexpensive Hair Dryer

Inexpensive Hair Dryer

Because I do not dry camp I have the power needed to use this, to dry out the fridge and freezer fast and get going home. Darn the ice cream is going to melt again.

Until next time.

Tools Of The RV Trade

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What tools do you need to have when RVing?  If you ask 10 RVers you will get 10 answers.  That’s because we all seem to run into problems with our RV that is a bit different from the next RVer and the tools to fix the problem that arose is slightly different. But there are some basic tools of the trade, so let’s talk about those.

You will find that you will need something to put whatever tools you decide to carry into something that is strong but light.  Tools have weight and it does not take too many until you have added measurable weight to your rig. So here is a tool box that works.Simple Tool Box

Simple Tool Box

Now that we have a toolbox, lets see what needs to be in it.

A screwdriver Multi Screwdriver

Multi Screwdriver

I chose one like above because it cut down on weight and space in my tool box.  If you rather, you could buy two flat blades (one large, one small) and two phillips screwdrivers a #2 and #1 or an  additional size of your choice.

You will need a special set of screw drivers for use with those pesky square headed screws that are used around the inside and the outside of the rig. These special square screw drivers are shown below.

square screw drivers

A set of basic pliers is next.  You will need several types.  Here is an example Basic Pliers

Basic Pliers

You will also need several advanced pliers, such as the ones shown below.

Slip Joint Pliers

Vice-Grip Pliers
Vice-Grip Pliers

You will need and use all the above pliers.  It is just a matter of time.  Next we move on to crescent wrenches.

#8 Crescent Wrench (8″ Crescent Wrench )

8″ Crescent Wrench

#10 inch Crescent Wrench (10 inch Crescent Wrench)

10 inch Crescent Wrench

Now for the special stuff.  This is stuff you need but will not use monthly.  I use this stuff yearly.  The first is the torque wrench.  This is used to check the lug nuts on the tires of the rig to make sure they are tighten to factory specifications.

Torque Wrench

3/8 inch Extension Bar Kit

3/8 inch Extension Bar Kit

The extension bar kit is used to get the torque wrench outside of the tire rim for a safer tightening of the nuts that hold the tires.  You will also need a drive socket that fits your tires lug nuts and is made for a  3/8″ drive.

If you have a Suburban water heater you will also need a breaker bar shown below, to remove the anode to check the anode as well as to replace the anode if needed.

3/8″ Breaker Bar Wrench
Suburban Water Heater Anode

You will also need the socket that fits the anode, along with the white plumber’s tape

Plumbers Tape

to prevent water leaking around the threads.

Hex Key Set

Of course a hammer is also a tool that should be carried

Hammer

To see into those dark areas around the RV you will need a small but powerful flashlight.

Cree 7W Mini LED Flashlight

One tool that I have that I really like is not really a tool but my multimeter.  I can check to see if there is voltage what kind and how much.  I can check for open and shorted wires as well as other things.  I highly recommend one for your tool kit.

Multimeter

Another tester that is handy, and some people think it should be a mandatory basic tool is the AC voltage monitor.  This shows what the park voltage is at any given time, (low voltage can damage your RV electrical system and electronics) and shows if the power pedestal is wired correctly if plugged into the pedestal before plugging in the RV.  You may have to get a Short jumper from 30 or 50 amps to standard AC wall socket to test the pedestal. Meter is shown below.

AC Power Monitor

The following is the tool I would not be without.  The multi-tool.  I carry this tool on my belt and I even bought the expansion kit for it.  You just never know when you need a screwdriver or pliers to tighten or loosen something.

Multi-Tool

I know someone will say, this is not all you need and will give me a list of stuff as long as my arm.  Things like gorilla tape, super glue, black electrical tape, clear and white silicone caulk.  I agree they are important and should be carried, but as I said earlier. This is the basic list and like American Express “I never go RVing with-out them”

Until next time.

Campfire Safety

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As we all get ready to start camping or have already started.  I am reminded that in many parts of the USA you can not have a campfire do to outdoor burning restrictions caused by the lack of RAIN.  So many of us remember the nights spent by the fire watching the sparks work their way up into the air from the burning logs and hearing the original snap, crackle, and pop. (sorry Kellogg)  Well things have changed that’s for sure.  First in many states now you can not bring firewood from one state to another or even from one part of a state to another do to bugs, worms, and what have you.  You must use the firewood that is at the park store or Ranger station.

How far is too far to move firewood? And what is meant by “local” firewood?  When discussing local firewood, I am referring to the closest convenient source of wood that you can find. That might be from down the street, or a state forest in your county. As a general rule of thumb, 50 miles is too far to move firewood, and 10 miles or less is the max firewood should be moved.  In many states there are rules, regulations, and quarantines that clearly state how far is too far. Always acquaint yourself with local rules and regulations when transporting firewood from one jurisdiction to another.  Find out more here Don’t Move Firewood .

So you buy some firewood from the Ranger’s supply at the park and you can burn it during the time you are in the part but you have to leave what you do not burn behind.  How can you make a camp fire fun and exciting?  Well, S’mores are fun to make S’mores.

When you are done making the S’mores you might want to be amazed by the camp fire northern light show.  Camp Fire Northern Light Show .

Now sit back and enjoy the rest of the evening and watch the light show from your camp fire.

What happens when you can not burn wood but you still want to sit around a campfire.  Well the solution for that is the gas campfire.  Most RV camping areas do not have a problem with the gas campfire even if there is a burn ban because the fire does not give off sparks and with the turn of the gas valve the fire is off.  You can still make those S’mores the kids want and you can still enjoy sitting outside of the RV around the campfire.  See Portable Gas Campfire for what I am talking about.

This portable gas campfire runs off of LP gas either the little 1lb green cylinders (runs for 2hrs) or the 10lb gas tanks.  It runs for hours and the red cover is used for storage and to elevate the gas campfire off the ground.  Also the red cover has the carry handle attached.  With the extra accessory you can even cook on the campfire just like a fire log one.

With any fire outside you need to have a fire extinguisher at the ready just in case.  Not just for grass fires. Fire Gone White/Red Fire Extinguisher – 16 oz

Until next time.

Is Your Pet Safe in Your RV When You’re Gone?

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This has been a major question with RVers traveling with their pets.  For some it was a reason not to go to a museum or sight-see some special area because there was no way to know. We have all read the horror stories of an RVer coming home to find their pet in a fight for its life or dead because of overheating in a hot RV.  Or worse yet did the power at the RV  park go off and come back on and reset everything, so that the air conditioning or heating system is not set to the right temperature?
With modern technology it should be simple and affordable to know if your pet is safe, while you are out enjoying the sights near where you are camping.  Lets look at some things that may work for you.
1. You will need an Android Smartphone that you will leave in the RV full time.  I would suggest a low cost  pay as you go Verizon phone.  The reason for Verizon is that, a Verizon Phone will work in more places than any of  the other Wireless Phone Companies. And for an RVer who is moving all the time you never know where you will be.

  • The phone needs to have bluetooth
  • Temperature Monitoring Feature (SamSung Galaxy 3 for example)
  • The phone must be rechargeable
  • You need to have both the AC and DC charger for the phone
The Verizon Moto G Prepaid Phone is an Android Smartphone that has most of the features you need.
Verizon Moto G Prepaid Phone

You will need to locate the phone where you get the best signal from Verizon and that is also near an AC power outlet.  You will also need to download from the Google Play Store an Application called
“Temperature Surveillance” located here Temp Surveillance .  The way this system works is the phone monitors your RV with your Android Smartphone. The day to day phone you normally carry with you will get an text message (SMS) if the RV  gets too hot, too cold or if a power failure occurs. The text message you will receive will  contain information about the RVs temperature and if there is a power failure or not in the RV.  All you have to do is tell the App the temperature limits high, low, and the telephone number where you want to receive the text alarms. Then just leave the RV Android phone plugged into the AC  in the space you want to monitor and you are done.

Positive: Simplest and cheapest method to monitor RV Temperature.
Negative: May not work with all cheap smartphones.
2. You will still need the Verizon phone above.  However for those smartphones that can not use the Temp Surveillance App here is another choice. The Elertus™ sensor monitors and sends alerts to your phone the instant an important door is opened/closed, a light is turned on/off, if temperature or humidity levels hit critical trigger points, or if the sensor is moved. In this case the Verizon RV Smartphone will have to be used as a Hotspot.  The Elertus will call your daily carried phone and report what the problem is.  This gives you time to get back to the RV and correct the problem.
 Some of the features of the Elertus are listed below.
  • 100% wireless, place it anywhere
  • No fees or subscriptions!
  • connects via wifi
  • temperature (-20°F to 150°F)
  • humidity (0 – 100%)
  • movement (accelerometer)
  • door sensor (open/close)
  • light sensor (on/off)
  • connection loss (wifi)
  • battery (0 – 100%)
  • free mobile app
  • access from anywhere
  • manage multiple sensors (ten per account)
  • alerts multiple users

To get more information on the Elertus system go here Elertus System of Remote Sensing

Here again the sensor sends information to you about the temperature in the RV and if power has failed.
3.  Another system (we are getting pricey folks) is Temperature Alert .  This unit would use the RV Wireless Phone as a HotSpot and send you text messages about the temperatures in your RV.
Temperature Alert Wi-Fi

The system does work well, but for some of us, it is a bit pricey.
The above unit is Temperature Alert Wi-Fi here is the Temperature Alert Cellular version of the same unit.

Temperature Alert Cellular

There are two more systems coming online later this fall
4.  The Wimoto THR001 Thermo Bluetooth Smart Thermometer Sensor.  This sensor will send the temperature information by Bluetooth to a device that will post the information to the Web using your RV Phone as a HotSpot.  Some of the features are listed below the picture.  This unit will be available later this Summer or early next Fall.

Wimoto THR001 Thermo Bluetooth Smart Thermometer Sensor

Some of the features are listed below;

  • Both infrared non-contact and needle probe thermometer in one. Infrared range 0 to 212 Fahrenheit. Probe range is -50 to 500 Fahrenheit.
  • Relays information to Bluetooth 4.0 SMART Ready devices such as iPhone 4S/5/5C/5S and certain Android phones and tablets with up to 100ft range
  • Acts as a datalogger when no smartphone or tablet in range and records information periodically for up to a month at a time.
  • Runs for 1-3 years on a single battery (user changeable) and weather resistant
  • Integrates with Wimoto Cloud Cube for real-time, always-on updates via the Internet

The thermometer sensor will send its information to the Wimoto Cloud Cube which will send the information to the internet and then be passed on to your everyday carried Smartphone.

Here is what the company said about the Cloud Cube; “Connects Wimoto Bluetooth SMART sensors to the Wimoto cloud service via Wifi. Extends the range of Wimoto sensors so that can be accessed from anywhere you have Internet connectivity.”  Here is a link to the Wimoto Cloud Cube that will be available late Summer 2014 or early Fall 2014.These are some of the best ideas currently available or that will be available soon.  It is important for all pet owners to enjoy RVing and that can be difficult when you are afraid to leave your pet behind in your Rig and strike out for adventure.

How hot is it in your Rig?  Now you will know.

Until next time.